The Curls Series: A Shampoo Guide for Curly Hair

Curly hair is often celebrated for its unique beauty and voluminous structure, setting it apart from straight hair. The primary differentiation lies in the shape of the hair follicle; while straight hair emerges from round follicles, curly hair originates from oval or asymmetrical follicles. This difference greatly influences the curl pattern and texture. Curly hair tends to have more twists and turns, leading to a complex structure that requires specific care strategies to maintain its integrity and health. Well, if you have curly hair, you know what I am talking about. 

So, let’s dive into the beauty and complexity of the curls.

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Understanding Curly Hair

One of the most critical aspects of curly hair care is moisture. Curly hair tends to be drier than straight hair due to its structure, which makes it challenging for natural oils from the scalp to travel down the hair shaft. This dryness can lead to frizz, breakage, and a lack of definition in curls. Therefore, incorporating moisture-rich products and regular hydration rituals into one’s hair care routine is essential for those with curly hair types.

The curl pattern itself is another vital consideration for curly hair care. Curls range from loose waves to tight coils, and understanding one’s specific curl pattern is crucial for effective styling and maintenance. Each type of curl—whether wavy, coily, or kinky—has distinct needs, influencing the choice of hair care products and techniques. Curly hair often requires special attention, including regular deep conditioning and the use of curl-enhancing products that can help define and control the curl pattern.

In summary, the starting points for your curly care are:

  1. Understanding the unique characteristics of curly hair is fundamental for formulating effective hair care strategies. 
  2. Recognizing the importance of moisture.

Now that we know the basics, it is time for practice.

Image from Freepik

Washing Curly Hair: Techniques and Products

Washing curly hair requires a thoughtful approach to maintain its natural beauty and texture. The frequency of washing will vary depending on individual preferences, but many people with curly hair (me included!) find that washing every 3 days is optimal. 

How do you define the best frequency? Test it. Select the products according to your hair characteristics and needs, and observe the results. Keep in mind that over-washing can strip the hair of its natural oils, leading to dryness and frizz, which are common concerns in curly hair care. On the other hand, a lack of proper wash might result in dandruff, bad smell, and hair loss (self-experience). 

Important: If you notice hair loss or any other side effect in your hair, suspend the use of the products and look for a professional orientation, for instance, a dermatologist.

Washing your hair

A step-by-step guide for washing curly hair would include the following: 

  1. Start by thoroughly wetting your hair with warm water to prepare it for cleansing. If you can use water at natural temperature or even cold, it will provide better results in your hair. 
  2. Apply the recommended amount of sulfate-free shampoo, focusing on the scalp while allowing the product to cascade down the lengths gently. Note that curls are naturally drier on the lenght. 
  3. Rinse thoroughly, then follow up with a moisturizing conditioner, ensuring you distribute it evenly through the hair, especially on the ends. Allow the conditioner to sit for a few minutes before rinsing with cool water to seal the moisture and improve curl definition.

Product selection

When selecting a shampoo, it is advisable to choose a sulfate-free option (it is a must, actually). Sulfates can be harsh on curls, leading to excessive dryness and frizz. Sulfate-free shampoos gently cleanse the scalp without removing essential moisture.

You can find several curly-focused products or others dedicated to the characteristics of your hair. My personal curly care merges products for curls, dryness, and colours, as I am (artificially) blond. My ultimate top 3 shampoos are:

  1. Kérastase Bain Satin (Amazon): This is the BEST shampoo that has touched my hair in my life. It is dedicated to dry hair and the texture is more creamy than liquid. It cleans your hair gently while adding a nice smell. After rinsing your hair with this product, you will feel it conditioned on your first try. It is amazing! The downside is the price. Kérastase products are costly; however, one 250 ml bottle rests for 4 to 5 months, as you need a small portion to wash your hair. 10/10
  2. L’Oréal Absolute Repair (Amazon): Here you have the best cost-benefit product for dry hair. The whole Absolute Repair line is very good, and both shampoo and mask are on my top list. With a small portion, your hair will be washed and hydrated. The reason why it is my #2 is that the “conditioner effect” is not as intense as the Bain Satin. However, the results you will find compared to the price are worth it. Definitely a good option.
  3. Kérastase Curl Manifesto (Amazon):  The Curl Manifesto did what no other commercial shampoo was able to do: reduce my hair loss. That’s it. The Bain Satin effect with less hair floating around my shower. The cons of this product are the price and the reduction of volume effect. In my tests, this product hydrated so much the roots of my hair, so that became harder to add volume to this region afterwards. 

Note about co-washing and my experience with the method

The co-washing method involves using a conditioner to cleanse the hair instead of shampoo. Co-washing can help to retain the hair’s moisture, enhancing the natural curl pattern without additional drying effects. Years ago, I followed this method for a couple of months, but the results were not as I expected. Even though the definition of my hair was incredible as I had never seen, it led to an important hair loss. For this reason, I stopped with the method and I don’t plan to follow it again.

The big question: volume or definition?

For people with curly hair, maintaining both volume and definition is essential to showcase the hair’s natural beauty. Several techniques can help achieve voluminous and well-defined curls, ensuring a bouncy and lively appearance. One effective method is diffusing. When using a hairdryer, the diffuser attachment helps to distribute heat evenly and prevents frizz, adding volume without compromising the curl structure.

Scrunching is another valuable technique for defining curls. After applying your favorite styling product, gently scrunch sections of your hair upwards towards your scalp. This method encourages the natural curl pattern while enhancing definition.

In addition to these techniques, choosing the right products is vital for maintaining healthy curls. Look for lightweight gels or creams specifically designed for curly hair care. These products not only define curls but also provide hold and minimize frizz. Ingredients such as aloe vera, coconut oil, and shea butter are excellent for keeping curls moisturized and full of vitality.

The coming episodes of The Curls Series will bring details on how to style your curls.

The Relationship Between Hair Care and Mental Health

The appearance of one’s hair impacts the overall self-image and can profoundly affect mental health and self-esteem. For women with curly hair, there is often a complex relationship between how they care for their hair and how they perceive themselves. Curls can be challenging to manage and style, often leading to frustration. In my personal experience, on many occasions, I was “offered” to straighten my hair while in hairdressing as it would be “easier to manage”. These episodes made me believe that my hair was ugly and would never be accepted as normal. For a long period, especially during teenagehood, it made me feel less attractive or unable to celebrate my beauty as it was.

It is important to encourage women to embrace their hair type, as a positive attitude towards one’s natural curls can lead to improved self-esteem. By fostering an appreciation for curly hair through proper care routines, one can transform its relationship with your self-appearance and, consequently, your mental health.

Recognising that it is perfectly acceptable to have curls can be liberating, allowing people, especially women, to step into their authenticity and embrace their unique beauty.

#thecurlsseries #myhealthyhealth

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